1/ Hill Station Signature Restaurant
A showcase of Hmong cuisine with cool Zen decor and superb views. Dishes include flash-cooked pork with lime, ash-baked trout in banana leaves, and traditional Hmong-style black pudding. Tasting sets of local rice and corn wine are also of interest to curious travelling foodies. Don't miss trying the delicate rainbow-trout rolls; think of them as 'Sapa sushi'.

2/ Viet Emotion
This intimate bistro features a cosy fireplace for cold mountain nights. The menu rambles from pizza, pasta and steaks to Vietnamese with a couple of Sapa specialities, such as herbal medicine hotpot (with lemongrass and mountain mushrooms).

3/ Village Noshery
Stylish cafe with decent Vietnamese food, including tapas-sized plates of interesting snacks like barbecued beef in betel leaves, and chicken and beef lemongrass satay sticks. Noodle dishes, soups and spring rolls are also available, and it's a top place for an end-of-day beer or cocktail. Coffee and cake is another post-trekking option. Upstairs are double rooms (US$30 including breakfast)

4/ Nature View
You've got to love the photos of the owner's kids on the walls at this friendly spot with great valley views. Look forward to decent Vietnamese and European food and just maybe Sapa's best fruit smoothies. Those who aren't fans of tofu should try the sizzling tofu with lemongrass and be converted. Don't worry – it's not all vegetarian food.

5/ Thang Co a Quynh
For a very local experience, Thang Co A Quynh is about as hard-core as it gets, as it only serves horse (yes, and including plenty of boiled blood and offal) and rice wine, and you sit on the floor.